THE BASICS The Colony Palms Hotel was built in 1936 by the Detroit mobster Al Wertheimer as a front for a brothel and gambling house. But despite its notorious past and a $16 million overhaul completed last August, the 56-room white-stucco hotel still resembles a motel on the outside. Fortunately, the new interior (and low rates) earn it a second look, thanks to a chic Moroccan-inspired makeover by the Los Angeles designer Martyn Lawrence-Bullard. Highlights of the two-story property include a stylish new pool edged by swaying palms, canvas umbrellas and stunning views of the Mars-like San Jacinto Mountains to the west.
THE LOCATION Near the middle of the action, but far enough to feel secluded. Palm Canyon Drive, with its collection of restaurants and midcentury-modern furniture shops, is a five-minute walk away.
THE CROWD On my visit last fall, the pool was populated by big-haired women in their 50s and 60s. At night, the bar, with its down-tempo lounge music and slick-looking employees, attracted a younger, cooler crowd.
THE ROOM The low-season price was right ($200), so I booked a casita — a semidetached bungalow with a sundeck and outdoor whirlpool tub. Like the hotel’s other rooms, it was bright and airy with a glam Hollywood-meets-Morocco look, anchored by a colorful, six-foot-high headboard embroidered by artisans in Istanbul. The red concrete floor, sisal rug and brown-and-white striped curtains added a beachy feel. A few caveats: there was no place to sit besides the bed, no desk, and the wireless Internet service — provided at no additional cost — was spotty. Also, what’s with the framed photographs hanging on the walls of nearly naked models frolicking on the hotel beds? Rather than sexy, they looked awkward.
THE BATHROOM The bathroom had an inviting, Restoration Hardware look, with plantation shutters, old-fashioned fixtures and antique French tiles. But it was plagued by annoying quirks: the door on the glass-walled shower leaked water all over the floor, and the light in the separate water closet was accompanied by a loud, rumbling fan.
THE AMENITIES Besides the pool, the elegant courtyard has comfortable chaise longues and a flower-shaped hot tub. The rooms have the usual gadgetry, including flat-screen TVs, iPod docking stations and Wi-Fi. There was also a minibar stocked with top-shelf liquors, mixers and a martini shaker. Scheduled to open in March are a gym and a Turkish hammam-themed spa with organic treatments.
ROOM SERVICE The hotel offers coffee and newspaper delivery in the morning at no extra charge, and a 24-hour room service menu — creative bistro fare like roast tenderloin of wild boar with a Dijon-pistachio crust — from the Purple Palm, the hotel’s poolside restaurant. Service was prompt and gracious. Breakfast, a memorable eggs Benedict with smoked turkey and avocado for $12 (and no service charge), arrived 15 minutes after being ordered. After setting up the tray on the patio, the waiter thoughtfully adjusted the umbrella to block the sun.
BOTTOM LINE A lot of style for not a lot of cash. Doubles are $209 in high season and casitas are $359, though better rates can sometimes be found through the hotel’s Web site. Colony Palms Hotel, 572 North Indian Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; (800) 557-2187; www.colonypalmshotel.com.