Inspired by the Seinfeld episode where Kramer rescues a Merv Griffin Show set from the trash and sets it up in his living room, Rubin built a ’70s-style talk-show set in the back of the restaurant, aiming to “use waffles to lure people into public storytelling.”A dedicated host—sometimes one of Rubin’s students, sometimes a community member—sits at a desk on a raised stage and engages the diverse cafe clientele in impromptu and completely unpredictable conversations that range, as Rubin puts it, “from Lady Gaga to conspiracy theories to unem-ployment to ghosts.” The talkshow “episodes” are streamed live online, and the most compelling ones are archived.

To his delight, locals embraced the unusual project. “Food creates a space of comfort for people,” Rubin says. “People who wouldn’t normally go into a theater would get up and perform. It allowed the possibility of unexpected interactions to take place.”

Rubin’s experiment continues to evolve. His own cravings for ethnic food in chipped ham-inclined Pittsburgh inspired the Conflict Kitchen, his latest collaboration with fellow artists Don Peña and Dawn Weleski. The goal, again, is to use food as a way to get people talking—in this case, about politics. The takeout window, adjacent to the Waffle Shop, sells street food exclusively from countries the United States is in conflict with, spotlighting a different country, dish, and storefront facade every four months. The kitchen’s first iteration served Iranian kubideh sandwiches (spiced beef, basil, onion, and mint rolled in flat barbari bread and sprinkled with sumac)wrapped in paper printed with interviews with members of the local Persian community.

Recently, the kitchen’s focus turned to Afghani cuisine. Though the flavors may change, the goals for both shops are the same: to engage the community by tempting their palates.

1. Outerlands

The menu at this rustic cafe from the husband-and-wife team of David Muller and Lana Porcello is ever-changing; a recent visit turned up whole baked trout with walnut gremolata. But there’s always soup and Muller’s homemade levain bread. 4001 Judah Street; (415) 661-6140; outerlandssf.com.

2. Polly Ann Ice Cream

If you can’t decide which of the 48 daily flavors to choose, go for green tea, everyone’s favorite, or spin the wheel of destiny and leave it to fate. For the intrepid, there’s Durian, a stinky-but-sweet flavor stored in the back. 3138 Noriega Street; (415) 664-2472.

3. Tuesday Tattoo

With its calm environment and friendly staff, this is an unintimidating place to get inked in San Francisco. Jesse Tuesday (right), Sam McWilliams and Hannah Wednesday specialize in intricate custom designs; even if you’re not in the market for body art, their portfolios — open on the front counter — are worth a browse. 4025 Judah Street; (415) 242-6028; jessetuesday.com.

4. Trouble Coffee Company

The magic words at this funky coffee shop, sheathed in reclaimed wood, are ”build your own damn house.” Say it to the barista and he’ll hand over a cup of coffee, a thick slice of cinnamon toast and a Thai coconut, all for $8. 4033 Judah Street; (415) 690-9119; troublecoffee.com.

5. Carville Annex

This tiny gallery — the space is basically a hallway leading to a staircase — has a lofty mission: to spotlight emerging talent and involve the viewer in the process. In January it’ll feature inhabitable sculptures by the local artist Llewelynn Fletcher. 4037 Judah Street; carvilleannex.com; by appointment only.

6. Woodshop

Four creative young artisan-designers (all surfers) share this studio with a by-appointment shop in the front where they sell their work: handmade heirloom-quality surfboards, typography-driven graphic art, and custom wooden furniture like a walnut slab table with cast bronze legs. 3725 Noriega Street; (415) 240-5504; woodshopsf.com.

7. General Store

Mason St. Peter, an architect, and Serena Mitnik-Miller, an artist and designer, opened this shop last December, envisioning a place with a little of everything. Most of the items are made locally, including Botany Factory terrariums and Tellason denim. 4035 Judah Street; (415) 682-0600; visitgeneralstore.com.

8. Mollusk Surf Shop

This quintessential California surf shop has been a community anchor since it opened in 2005, selling silk-screened T-shirts, hoodies and hand-printed posters along with a plethora of surf gear and boards. There’s also an art gallery and a treehouse installation made from recycled wood by the artist Jay Nelson. 4500 Irving Street; (415) 564-6300; mollusksurfshop.com.

Friday

4 p.m.
1) CREATIVE SOUVENIRS

With its relatively affordable rents and D.I.Y. ethos, Salt Lake City is a bastion of creativity. To survey the design scene, stop by Frosty Darling (177 East Broadway; 801-532-4790; frostydarling.com), a whimsical gift shop stocked with retro candy and handmade clothing, accessories, and housewares by the owner, Gentry Blackburn, and other Utah designers. Signed & Numbered (2100 East 2100 South; 801-596-2093; signed-numbered.com) specializes in limited-edition, hand-pulled art prints and concert posters, from $8 to $150. And at Salt Lake Citizen (210 East 400 South; 801-363-3619; facebook.com/SaltLakeCitizen), in the atrium of the Main Library building, you’ll find street-inspired clothing and accessories from 40 city designers, including embroidered wide-leg jeans and jewelry made of laser-cut acrylic.

7 p.m.
2) UTAH FARMS

Chain restaurants used to dominate Salt Lake City’s food scene, but today intimate spots are popping up, run by young chefs inspired by the bounty of local organic farmers and artisanal purveyors. Leading the pack is Pago (878 South 900 East; 801-532-0777; pagoslc.com), a bustling neighborhood joint housed in a squat 1910 brick building. The chef Mike Richey spotlights local organic products in dishes like bagna cauda wagyu bavette steak with heirloom fingerling potatoes and local arugula ($29) in a rustic candle-lit room that seats just 50. Another newcomer is Forage (370 East 900 South; 801-708-7834; foragerestaurant.com), which serves wildly creative dishes like vanilla-scented diver scallops paired with smoked beluga lentils. A three-course dinner is $45.

9 p.m.
3) OPEN CITY

Raise a glass to celebrate the repeal of liquor laws that required bars to operate as private clubs and collect membership fees. The Red Door (57 West 200 South; 801-363-6030; behindthereddoor.com) has dim lighting, a great martini list and kitschy revolution décor — yes, that’s a Che Guevara mural on the wall. Squatters Pub Brewery (147 West Broadway; 801-363-2739; squatters.com) serves high-gravity beers from the award-winning brewmaster Jenny Talley, like the 6 percent alcohol India Pale Ale. And Club Jam (751 North 300 West; 801-891-1162; jamslc.com) is a friendly gay bar with a house party feel and impromptu barbecues on the back patio.

Saturday

9 a.m.
4) BOTANICAL BLISS

The Red Butte Garden, nestled in the foothills above the University of Utah campus (300 Wakara Way; 801-585-0556; redbuttegarden.org), has a newly planted rose garden, 3.5 miles of walking trails and morning yoga in the fragrance garden. For a wake-up hike, ask the front desk for directions to the Living Room, a lookout point named for the flat orange rocks that resemble couches. Sit back and absorb the expansive views of the valley, mountains and the Great Salt Lake.

11 a.m.
5) NOT JUST TEMPLES

Chart your own architecture tour. The city’s Main Library (210 East 400 South; 801-524-8200; www.slcpl.lib.ut.us), a curving glass structure built in 2003 by the architect Moshe Safdie, has fireplaces on every floor and a rooftop garden with views of the city and the Wasatch Mountains. For older buildings, wander the Marmalade Historic District, home to many original pioneer homes from the 19th century, or go on a walking tour with the Utah Heritage Foundation (801-533-0858; utahheritagefoundation.com).

1 p.m.
6) DIVERSE PALATE

Although recent census figures put the city’s population at 75.3 percent white, there is a growing ethnic population of Latinos, Pacific Islanders (particularly Samoan and Tongan), and refugees from Tibet, Bosnia and Somalia. Taste their influence at places like Himalayan Kitchen (360 South State Street; 801-328-2077; himalayankitchen.com), a down-home dining room with turmeric-yellow walls and red tablecloth tables, where dishes include Nepali goat curry ($15.95) and Himalayan momos, steamed chicken dumplings served with sesame seed sauce ($10.95).

3 p.m.
7) GIMME SUGAR

The Sugarhouse district is known for its one-of-a-kind shops and pedestrian-friendly mini-neighborhoods that are near the intersections of 900 East and 900 South (which locals call “9th and 9th”), and 1500 East and 1500 South (“15th and 15th”). Highlights include the Tea Grotto (2030 South 900 East; 801-466-8255; teagrotto.com), a funky teahouse that specializes in fair-trade and loose-leaf teas, and the charming King’s English Bookshop (1511 South 1500 East; 801-484-9100; kingsenglish.com), a creaky old house filled with books and cozy reading nooks.

7 p.m.
8) ITALIAN HOUR

Salt Lake City has plenty of appealing Italian restaurants — Cucina Toscana and Lugäno are perpetual favorites — but the most romantic is arguably Fresco Italian Cafe (1513 South 1500 East; 801-486-1300; frescoitaliancafe.com), an intimate 14-table restaurant tucked off the main drag in a 1920s cottage. The menu is small but spot-on, with simple northern Italian dishes with a twist. The butternut squash ravioli, for example, is served with a splash of reduced apple cider and micro-planed hazelnuts ($18). There’s a roaring fire, candlelight and, in the summer, dining on the brick patio.

9 p.m.
9) LIVE FROM UTAH

As the only sizable city between Denver and Northern California, Salt Lake City gets many touring bands passing through. Hear established and up-and-coming acts at places like the Urban Lounge (241 South 500 East; 801-746-0557; theurbanloungeslc.com) and Kilby Court (741 South Kilby Court; 801-364-3538; kilbycourt.com). If you want to make your own sweet music, stop by Keys on Main (242 South Main Street; 801-363-3638; keysonmain.com), a piano bar where the audience sings along.

Sunday

10 a.m.
10) SECULAR MISSION

Mormons get around, and not just for missionary work. Latter-day Saint Humanitarian Center (1665 South Bennett Road; 801-240-5954; lds.org/placestovisit) is a humanitarian juggernaut that sends out handmade quilts, secondhand clothing and educational and medical supplies from their gigantic, factory-like complex to needy places around the world. If you’re curious to see how it all works, take a 45-minute tour of the sprawling warehouse, where workers and volunteers sort the more than 100,000 pieces of clothing that arrive at the center daily. If you’re inspired to help, you can stay after the tour and help prepare the humanitarian kits that regularly ship out to Haiti, Zimbabwe and other countries in crisis.

2 p.m.
11) OLYMPIC GHOSTS

Thrill-seekers head 28 miles east to Park City’s Utah Olympic Park (3419 Olympic Parkway, Park City; 435-658-4200; olyparks.com), which hosted 14 medal events during the 2002 Winter Olympic Games. Even in the summer you can make like a medalist and fly down a slope at 70 miles per hour on a Comet bobsled, race along a slick steel alpine slide, or recreate a ski jump that is billed as the world’s steepest zipline. Burgeoning culture and culinary sophistication has its benefits, but for sheer thrill, nothing beats an adrenaline rush.

IF YOU GO

Most major domestic airlines fly into Salt Lake City, including Delta, which operates a hub here. A recent Web search found a nonstop flight from Kennedy Airport for about $407 for travel in June.

There’s a light rail system downtown, but you’ll still want a car.

The elegant Grand America Hotel (555 South Main Street; 800-621-4505; grandamerica.com) lives up to its name with a formal afternoon tea, green tea spa treatments and 775 palatial rooms with Italian marble bathrooms. Doubles from $179.

The Inn on the Hill (225 North State Street; 801-328-1466; inn-on-the-hill.com), housed in a 1909 English-style manor, retains its historic character with Tiffany stained-glass windows and reproduction antiques in the 12 guest rooms. Queen rooms start at $135, including breakfast.

Downtown, Hotel Monaco (15 West 200 South; 800-805-1801; monaco-saltlakecity.com) has 225 whimsical rooms, embellished with colorful fabrics, geometric headboards and striped wallpaper. Doubles start at $129.

DRAWINGS: 11 hours in the valley: 9 a.m.: Grab a cinnamon bun or a house-made English muffin at the Model Bakery (644 First Street, Building B, Napa; 707-259-1128; themodelbakery.com).; 10 a.m.: Ogle more than 1,000 artworks at di Rosa, one of the world’s top collections of Bay Area art (5200 Sonoma Highway, Napa; 707-226-5991; dirosaart.org). ; 1 p.m. : Linger over lunch at Tra Vigne, where the mozzarella al minuto is made to order (1050 Charter Oak Avenue, St. Helena; 707-963-4444; travignerestaurant.com).; 2:30 p.m.: Unwind with a hot stone massage at the 13,000-square-foot Mission-inspired Spa Villagio (6481 Washington Street, Yountville; 707-948-5050; villagio.com).; 4 p.m.: Nibble a macaron from Bouchon Bakery and wander Thomas Keller’s 2.5-acre garden (6528 Washington Street, Yountville; 707-944-2253; bouchonbakery.com).; 5 p.m.: Browse the furniture and gothic objets d’art at Ma(i)sonry, then sample a flight of wine in its garden (6711 Washington Street, Yountville; 707-944-0889; maisonry.com).; 8 p.m.: Dine at the new Farmstead, where everything from the olive oil to the grass-fed beef is local (738 Main Street, St. Helena; 707-963-4555; longmeadowranch.com).

Going to Town

SHOP: Start at the Oxbow Public Market (610 and 644 First Street, Napa; 707-226-6529; oxbowpublicmarket.com), a covered marketplace chockablock with specialty food stalls, including an organic ice cream shop and an outpost of the Hog Island Oyster Company. From there, meander over to Cake Plate (1000 Main Street, Suite 100, Napa; 707-226-2300; cakeplateonline.com) for creative cupcakes as well as bright and graphic women’s clothing by the likes of Trina Turk, Orla Kiely and Leifsdottir.

EAT: For lunch, choose from beer-can chicken at Bounty Hunter Wine Bar & Smokin’ BBQ (975 First Street, Napa; 707-226-3976; bountyhunterwine.com) or authentic Indian food at Neela’s (975 Clinton Street, Napa; 707-226-9988; neelasindianrestaurant.com). Come dinner, there’s the grand seven-course tasting menu at La Toque (1314 McKinstry Street, Napa; 707-257-5157; latoque.com; $135) or the vegetable restaurant and yoga studio Ubuntu, which recently earned a Michelin star (1140 Main Street, Napa; 707-251-5656; ubuntunapa.com; entrees $11 to $17).

NEXT UP: Later this summer, three high-profile restaurants will open in the $72 million Napa Riverfront complex: a contemporary Japanese dining room and shop from the ”Iron Chef” Masaharu Morimoto; a Tyler Florence rotisserie and wine bar featuring locally raised meat; and Fish Story, a sustainable seafood restaurant with a raw bar and a boat dock.

Barrel  Fever

FOR ART

HESS ART MUSEUM: Serious culture-trippers should make a beeline for the Hess Art Museum at the Hess Collection Winery, which displays modern and contemporary art by the likes of Andy Goldsworthy, Anselm Kiefer and Robert Motherwell in a sleek three-story gallery. 4411 Redwood Road, Napa; (707) 255-1144; hesscollection.com.

HALL RUTHERFORD: Drawn from Craig and Kathryn Hall’s personal collection, the 30 or so artworks on display at Hall Rutherford include paintings and sculptures throughout the grounds and wine caves and a bronze grapevine dripping with Swarovski crystals. 56 Auberge Road, Rutherford; (707) 967-0700; hallwines.com; by appointment.

FOR SPECTACLE

CASTELLO DI AMOROSA: The Castello di Amorosa is a 121,000-square-foot replica of a 13th-century castle, complete with chapel, torture chamber and five stone towers that took the vintner Dario Sattui nearly 14 years to build using medieval materials and construction techniques. The operation is a bit like a theme park, but the impeccably designed building itself is well worth a gawk. 4045 North St. Helena Highway, Calistoga; (707) 967-6272; castellodiamorosa.com; tours by appointment

DARIOUSH: Darioush Khaledi designed his flashy namesake winery, Darioush, to evoke a palace in Persepolis, the ancient capital of his native Iran. It’s Persia by way of Vegas: picture a travertine-clad villa, an indoor three-story waterfall and 16 uplit granite columns topped with double bullheads. 4240 Silverado Trail, Napa; (707) 257-2345; darioush.com.

FOR CREATIVE PAIRINGS

SIP SHOPPE: At Swanson Vineyards’ stylish new Sip Shoppe, secreted away in a faux circus tent down a rural road, playful pairings reign: think pinot grigio served with domestic caviar and a potato chip, and dark chocolate paired with a dessert wine served in a miniature crystal goblet. 1271 Manley Lane, Rutherford; (707) 967-3500; swansonvineyards.com.

ROBERT SINKSEY VINEYARDS: At Robert Sinskey Vineyards, ”flight attendants” help visitors pair the estate’s food-friendly reds and whites with roasted almonds, gougères and olives picked and cured on site. The $50 farm-to-table tour lets guests pick fruits and vegetables from the orchard and organic garden, sniff kaffir lime and bay leaves, and figure out which herbs go best with which wines. 6320 Silverado Trail, Napa; (707) 944-9090; robertsinskey.com.

FOR ECO-CRED

CADE WINERY: Cade Winery is striving to a Gold-LEED-certified, solar-powered winery and tasting room. The modern concrete-and-wood structure is built mostly of recycled and reclaimed materials; the 14,500-square foot wine caves are naturally ventilated; and the tasting room is insulated with denim remnants. 360 Howell Mountain Road South, Angwin; (707) 965-2746; cadewinery.com; by appointment.

QUINTESSA: At the 280-acre Quintessa winery — one of the most scenic properties in Napa — the owner and vineyard master, Valeria Huneeus, grows grapes in a sustainable, biodynamic way, farming in tune with the phases of the moon and cosmological cycles, and applying homeopathic compost teas to the vines. 1601 Silverado Trail, Rutherford; (707) 967-1601; quintessa.com; by appointment.

Doubling Up

MUD BATH: HIGH: Mosey up to the mud bar at Spa Solage for a customized blend of minerals, clay and essential oils ($98). 755 Silverado Trail, Calistoga; (707) 226-0820; solagecalistoga.com.

LOW: Lower yourself into a concrete trough for an old-fashioned, no-frills volcanic mud bath at Indian Springs ($85). 1712 Lincoln Avenue, Calistoga; (707) 942-4913; indianspringscalistoga.com.

NIBBLES: HIGH: Book a one-hour guided cheese, charcuterie and wine tasting ($50) at the new Kenzo Estate, owned by a Japanese businessman who made his fortune in the video game industry. 3200 Monticello Road, Napa; (707) 259-5408; kenzoestate.com.

LOW: Pick up some local ash-aged goat cheese and Frá Mani Toscano Salami at Sunshine Foods, and have a picnic by the boccie courts at Crane Park. 1115 Main Street, St. Helena; (707) 963-7070; sunshinefoodsmarket.com.

TOUR: HIGH: Go up in a hot-air balloon with Napa Valley Balloons for a bird’s-eye view of the valley, followed by a Champagne brunch ($240 per person). 1 California Drive, Yountville; (707) 944-0228; napavalleyballoons.com.

LOW: Rent a carbon fiber road bike from the St. Helena Cyclery and cruise the Silverado Trail ($65 for a 24-hour rental). 1156 Main Street, St. Helena; (707) 963-7736; sthelenacyclery.com.

COOKING CLASS: HIGH: high Sharpen your knife skills and cooking techniques in the five-day Basic Training Boot Camp at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone ($2,095). 2555 Main Street, St. Helena; (800) 888-7850; ciachef.edu/california.

LOW: Enroll in a whole hog butchering or salumi-making class at the new Fatted Calf charcuterie shop ($135). 644-C First Street, Napa; (707) 256-3684; fattedcalf.com.

BURGER: HIGH: Splurge on the almond-wood-grilled American Kobe beef burger topped with Gruyère and wine-stewed onions at Martini House in St. Helena ($17). 1245 Spring Street; (707) 963-2233; martinihouse.com.

LOW: Claim a picnic table at Gott’s Roadside and chow down on a classic burger topped with pickles and American cheese ($8). 933 Main Street, St. Helena; (707) 963-3486; gottsroadside.com.

Trail Mix

In an effort to protect the valley from overdevelopment, the Land Trust of Napa County has permanently preserved more than 52,000 acres of agricultural and natural land since 1976. You can take one of the organized hikes led by trust members and, once you’ve done that, trek solo through protected areas that are otherwise off-limits. (707) 261-6316; napalandtrust.org.

Jolly Ranches

1. Auberge du Soleil

Look Provence in California, with hillside stucco cottages shaded by olive trees.
Best for Hollywood types, honeymooners.
Don’t miss The three-acre sculpture garden.
Caveat Not family-friendly.
180 Rutherford Hill Road, Rutherford; (707) 963-1211; aubergedusoleil.com; doubles from $575.

2. Bardessono

Look Weathered steel, polished concrete, reclaimed wood, clean lines.
Best for Eco-minded sybarites (it’s California’s first LEED-platinum-certified hotel).
Don’t miss An in-room spa treatment (every bathroom has a fold-out massage bed).
Caveat The minimalist interiors can be sterile.
6526 Yount Street, Yountville; (707) 204-6000; bardessono.com; doubles from $350.

3. Calistoga Ranch

Look Cedar bungalows nestled in the woods, with decks and outdoor showers.
Best for Deep-pocketed nature lovers.
Don’t miss Hiking the resort’s 157 redwood-filled acres.
Caveat Bedroom and living room are seperated by an open-air deck — a drag when it’s cold or rainy.
580 Lommel Road, Calistoga; (707) 254-2800; calistogaranch.com; doubles from $550.

4. The Carneros Inn

Look Haute agricultural architecture by way of tin-roofed cottages with porches.
Best for People seeking evidence of Napa’s rural past.
Don’t miss The guests-only spa, which uses local ingredients like goat butter.
Caveat Off the beaten path — 25 minutes to St. Helena.
4048 Sonoma Highway, Napa; (707) 299-4900; thecarnerosinn.com; doubles from $450.

5. Meadowood Napa Valley

Look New England country club — a golf course, tennis courts and gable-roofed cottages — on 250 acres.
Best for Preppy families.
Don’t miss Croquet on the lawn and dinner in the Michelin-starred restaurant.
Caveat It’s spread out enough that you’ll be hitching golf-cart rides from the bell staff.
900 Meadowood Lane, St. Helena; (707) 963-3646; meadowood.com; doubles from $525.

6. Milliken Creek Inn and Spa

Look Wooden shingled summer house by the river.
Best for Romantic getaways (candlelight at turn-down, breakfast in bed).
Don’t miss Wine-and-cheese hour hosted by local winemakers.
Caveat There’s no restaurant, pool or gym.
1815 Silverado Trail, Napa; (707) 255-1197; millikencreekinn.com; doubles from $350.

7. Hotel Luca

Look Fantasy version of an Italian courtyard house.
Best for Italophiles and foodies (it’s a short walk to Yountville’s restaurant row).
Don’t miss The house-cured salumi at the hotel restaurant.
Caveat Noisy courtyard dining is in earshot of guest rooms.
6774 Washington Street, Yountville; (707) 944-8080; hotellucanapa.com; doubles from $295.

Star Search

Ad Hoc:

Claim to fame Thomas Keller’s casual joint was supposed to be temporary, but it’s still here four years later, thanks to wild acclaim. Set menus change daily.
Vibe Unpretentious: waiters in jeans, family-style dishes.
Signature dish Perfect fried chicken, served every other Monday.
6476 Washington Street, Yountville; (707) 944-2487; adhocrestaurant.com; four-course meal $49.

Bottega:

Claim to fame Italian fare by Michael Chiarello, a Food Network personality and St. Helena resident.
Vibe Buzzing: Chiarello makes the rounds, greeting locals and industry insiders by name.
Signature dish ”Green eggs & ham” (braised asparagus with pecorino budino pudding, egg and prosciutto bits).
6525 Washington Street, Yountville; (707) 945-1050; botteganapavalley.com; entrees $15 to $37.

Bouchon:

Claim to fame Keller’s original brasserie, with a Michelin star and outposts in Las Vegas and Los Angeles.
Vibe Festive: closely packed tables and a patio overlooking Yountville’s main drag. Popular with local chefs.
Signature dish Roasted leg of lamb with seasonal accompaniments.
6534 Washington Street; Yountville; (707) 944-8037; bouchonbistro.com; entrees $17 to $34.

Etoile at Domaine Chandon:

Claim to fame At 26, the chef Perry Hoffman is one of the youngest recipients of a Michelin star in the United States.
Vibe Insidery: Napa veterans imbibing in the lounge, visitors lingering over a four-course feast.
Signature dish Dungeness crab with shaved fennel and madeira gelée.
1 California Drive, Yountville; (888) 242-6366; chandon.com; entrees $26 to $38.

French Laundry:

Claim to fame Keller’s three-Michelin-star temple is almost impossible to book — you have to call precisely two months to the calendar day.
Vibe Reverent: an awed hush accompanies the meal of a lifetime.
Signature dish ”Oysters and pearls” — a sabayon of pearl tapioca with oysters and white caviar.
6640 Washington Street, Yountville; (707) 944-2380; frenchlaundry.com; nine-course meal $250.

Redd:

Claim to fame The first solo venture from Richard Reddington, who worked at Restaurant Daniel, Auberge du Soleil and top restaurants in France.
Vibe Hopping: power brokers, C.E.O.’s and Hollywood producers.
Signature dish Glazed pork belly with apple purée, burdock and soy caramel.
6480 Washington Street, Yountville; (707) 944-2222; reddnapavalley.com; entrees $26 to $30.

Shopping Block

Martin Showroom Erin Martin’s eclectic shop is filled with furniture and objects like tar sculptures by the Los Angeles artist Mattia Biagi and a chandelier made of rope. 1350 Main Street; (707) 967-8787; martinshowroom.com.

Woodhouse Chocolate Tracy Wood Anderson handcrafts chocolates and truffles in flavors like Thai ginger and pecan-caramel. 1367 Main Street; (707) 963-8413; woodhousechocolate.com.

The Marketplace at Greystone The Culinary Institute of America’s store (above) stocks a jaw-dropping array of cookware, books and hard-to-find ingredients. 2555 Main Street; (888) 424-2433.

Napa Valley Olive Oil Manufacturing Company This unassuming barn is famous for its extra-virgin olive oil, bottled on the premises every morning. 835 Charter Oak Avenue; (707) 963-4173.

Flats Jan Niemi’s ballet flats are handmade in Tuscany and come in colors from black to tangerine. 1219-B Main Street; (707) 967-0480.

Jan de Luz French antiques share space with milled soaps and exquisite linens at this boutique, which can monogram anything while you wait. 1219 Main Street; (707) 963-1550; jandeluz.com.

Side Note

SLEEP Opening in June, h2hotel will have 36 rooms, a solar-heated pool, a restaurant, and a bar helmed by the mixologist Scott Beattie (219 Healdsburg Avenue; 707-922-5251; h2hotel.com; doubles from $195). The minimalist Duchamp Hotel (421 Foss Street; 707-431-1300; duchamphotel.com; doubles from $350) has six cottages with Donald Judd-inspired wooden beds.

EAT Cyrus (29 North Street; 707-433-3311; cyrusrestaurant.com; tasting menu $102 to $130) is the French Laundry of Sonoma, with inventive cooking by Douglas Keane. For something low-key, check out Barndiva (231 Center Street; 707-431-0100; barndiva.com; entrees $20 to $32), where Ryan Fancher uses exclusively local ingredients.

SIP The new Prohibition Speakeasy Wine Club (340 Healdsburg Avenue; 707-473-9463; speakeasywineclub.com) — hidden behind a phone booth in the back of a wine shop — specializes in Sonoma vintages. The Medlock Ames Tasting Room and Alexander Valley Bar (6487 Alexander Valley Road; 707-431-8845; medlockames.com) also runs a farm stand.

SHOP Lime Stone (315 Healdsburg Avenue; 707-433-3080; limestonehealdsburg.com), owned by the chef Charlie Palmer and his wife, Lisa, stocks culinary gifts. Studio Barndiva (237 Center Street; 707-431-7404; studiobarndiva.com) features textiles from women’s collectives in Ethiopia and Tibet. And Arboretum (above left; 332 Healdsburg Avenue; 707-433-7033; arboretumapparel.com) has organic cotton jeans and handbags made of vintage car fabrics.

Hidden in these canyons are not only A-list movie stars like Jennifer Aniston and Mel Gibson but also more than 40 vineyards. They range from postage-stamp-size plots to serious commercial enterprises run by unlikely but dedicated gentleman farmers: wealthy entrepreneurs, developers and restaurateurs who can afford to grow grapes and make wine on some of the most expensive real estate in America.

“Malibu isn’t a farming community,” says Tim Skogstrom, who recently opened the Cornell Winery and Tasting Room nearby in the Santa Monica Mountains.

Still, wine isn’t new to the area. In the mid-1800s, Los Angeles County was the center of the California wine world; by 1870, the region’s 43 wineries were producing four million gallons of wine. Rapid urban growth, Prohibition, an epidemic of a vine-killing disease, and the rise of Napa and Sonoma in the North, however, soon wiped out the industry here. Now, a century later, wine is making a comeback, with a clutch of tasting rooms sprouting up along the canyon roads.

It is doing so with people like George Rosenthal, a movie studio magnate-turned vintner who cultivates 30 acres of vines at his hacienda-style country house. (His full-time residence is in Santa Monica.) Rosenthal was one of the first to reintroduce grapes to Malibu, planting a few acres of Bordeaux varietals in 1987. Now in his 70s, he zips through his estate on an electric golf cart, pointing out the challenges of his site, which are typical in Malibu. There are no valley vineyards here, but rather mountainous terrain with an array of soils, microclimates and sun exposures — so every block within a site requires a high level of care.

Rosenthal Estate wines, which are sold at iconic  restaurants like the Polo Lounge at the Beverly Hills Hotel, are still not turning a profit — even 22 years in. This is not uncommon because of the high overhead (water is scarce and extremely expensive statewide, and most of the vineyards have to be worked by hand because the slopes won’t accommodate machinery. But profit isn’t the point; everyone making wine in Malibu can afford to lavish money on the project. “It’s about the passion,” Rosenthal says. “There’s a great romance to a vineyard and sharing that lifestyle with others.”

One man who may break that mold is Charles Schetter, whose Malibu Sanity label, Skogstrom predicts, will be “the first cult wine out of the area.” A large-scale land developer by day, and a longtime Burgundy collector, Schetter planted six blocks of chardonnay and pinot noir in 2005, in his backyard, which happens to have the ideal microclimate: cool coastal breezes and lots of afternoon sunshine. His obsessive personality helps, too: Schetter tends the vines himself, has attended enology classes and constantly checks the computerized weather monitor that he keeps by his bed. “If you’re going to be serious about winemaking, you need to go all the way,” he says. “Short of that, it’s a hobby —or you’re just writing the checks.”

The region is still evolving, but across the board, the quality of Malibu vintages is improving. Alex Weil, the head sommelier at the new Bouchon restaurant in Beverly Hills, has watched the region advance over the past 15 years and thinks it holds promise. “They’ve got terroir and a coastal climate, like Rhone or Burgundy, and a population with the means to keep experimenting and learning,” he says. But to get respect in the wine world, “they’ll need to produce a truly great wine, or have a great figure, a star, emerge from the pack. That will take time, no question.”

Most locals acknowledge as much. “We’re where Santa Ynez was 20 years ago,” says Tony Griffin, screenwriter and scion of the Merv Griffin entertainment empire — and since 1998, a grower of chardonnay and malbec in a half-acre backyard plot he calls the Griffin Family Vineyard. He points to his Burgundian-style chardonnay — “see, the label’s crooked because I put it on myself.” He takes a swig and adds: “The thing Malibu needs is age, to age like a good wine. In 10, 15 years, we’ll be good. Right now, we’re just baby wines.”

ESSENTIALS

The best Malibu wines are sold at Malibu Village Wines (3900 Cross Creek Road, 310-456-2924, www.malibuvillagewines.com) and Cornell Winery and Tasting Room (29975 Mulholland Highway, 818-735-3542, www.cornellwinery.com). Or piece together your own Malibu wine-tasting trail at the Rosenthal Estate Wines Tasting Room (26023 Pacific Coast Highway, 310-456-1392, www.rosenthalestatewines.com), Malibu Wines (Semler and Saddlerock’s tasting room) (31800 Mulholland Highway, 818-865-0605,www.malibuwine.com), and SIP Malibu (Cielo’s tasting room) (2598 Sierra Creek Road, 818-865-0440, www.cielofarms.com).

Six wines worth seeking out:

• 2007 Hoyt Family Vineyards Chardonnay, $26 Big and buttery, but well balanced, from one of the region’s only female wine producers.
• 2007 Malibu Vineyards Cabernet Franc, $32 Double gold medal winner at the San Francisco International Wine Competition, made by an unusually hands-on proprietor.
• 2008 Malibu Sanity Pinot Noir, $46 Malibu’s best pinot, from one of the region’s most promising boutique vineyards.

• 2008 Griffin Family Vineyard Chardonnay, $46 Bright and tropical, with great acidity.

• 2005 Rosenthal Estate Wines Block M Single-Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, $50 The latest release from one of Malibu’s wine pioneers, known for their muscular cabs.
• 2007 Semler Sauvignon Blanc, $23 Restrained, mineral-laden, Italian-style, pairs well with food.

Having already pointed out the fermented tea kombucha “living” on top of the fridge, and the kefir milk fermenting in the pantry, and the homemade sourdough crackers browning in the oven, Melinda Stone led a visitor down to the basement of the Victorian house she shares with three other creative 40-somethings in the Duboce Triangle neighborhood of San Francisco. “There’s a lot of stuff bubbling down here,” she said enthusiastically, sliding open a door. “I think it’s beautiful.”

livepage.apple.comSure enough, in a corner of the dark room, five glass jugs filled with hard apple cider silently burped and fizzed. Ms. Stone (who is a part-time farmer; she and her husband own a 21-acre solar- and wind-powered farm in Humboldt County) uncorked the air lock and added some honey water, to keep the fermentation going and increase the alcohol content. “Lots of people in San Francisco make their own hooch,” she said. “Alcohol is often the gateway to urban homesteading.”

In cities across the country, the term “homesteading” has taken on a new meaning. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, it referred to settlers occupying land, cultivating it and claiming it as their own.

Today in the Bay Area and beyond, urban homesteaders like Ms. Stone and her roommates are raising their own food in their backyards, in community gardens and on derelict and undeveloped spaces in the city. They’re preserving and pickling vegetables and fruits, sewing their own clothes, baking bread, making alcoholic beverages, and much more.

As the movement has flourished and become more mainstream — embraced by activists and food lovers alike — so too have the resources for would-be urban homesteaders.

The husband-and-wife authors Erik Knutsen and Kelly Coyne, inspired by their adventures in their Los Angeles kitchen and garden, published “The Urban Homestead,” the contemporary bible on the subject. This fall, they’ll have “Making It: Radical Home-Ec For a Post-Consumer World” (Rodale), a step-by-step book that covers everything from building a chicken coop to cooking from scratch.

For those eager to pick up (or polish) some homesteading skills, the Bay Area now teems with accessible, affordable classes and workshops.

At the three-month-old Hayes Valley Farm, which is located on a former freeway ramp in the heart of San Francisco, you can practice planting a vegetable garden and learn about seed-saving (hayesvalleyfarm.com). Up in Napa, Taylor Boetticher, an owner of the Fatted Calf charcuterie, leads four-hour salumi and whole-hog butchery workshops, as well as occasional offal-themed “blood and guts” classes, where participants create pâté, pickled pork tongues and blood sausage (fattedcalf.com).

Happy Girl Kitchen’s monthly canning workshops, which are held in Oakland and also on a farm in the Santa Cruz mountains, focus on pickling, fermenting and jam- and jelly-making (happygirlkitchen.com). At the Institute for Urban Homesteading in Oakland, the founder, K. Ruby Blume, and other instructors teach roughly 50 classes a year, on subjects ranging from cheesemaking to “urban rabbitry” and animal husbandry (iuhoakland.com).

And the chef Nicole LoBue teaches monthly four-hour “Self-Sufficient Kitchen” classes that are held at the Studio for Urban Projects in San Francisco. Planned lessons cover naturally leavened bread and fermented foods like kimchi and sauerkraut (studioforurbanprojects.org).

Homesteaders who have mastered their skills can register to sell their wares at the SF Underground Market, which pops up in a different location every month. Conceived as a way to connect consumers with home cooks and small-scale purveyors and build a sense of community, the most recent market, held in a SoMa gallery last week, attracted 2,000 attendees and 70 vendors, hawking homemade items like peanut brittle and grass-fed beef jerky.

The first market, held in December, had 150 attendees and 8 vendors. Since the vendors don’t have commercial kitchens or business licenses, attendees comply with health department regulations by signing up online as “club members” before the event (foragesf.com/market).

To further empower and inspire people, Ms. Stone, an associate professor of media studies and environmental studies at the University of San Francisco, works with fellow filmmakers and students to create quirky how-to videos that she then posts to her experimental Web site, howtohomestead.org.

On April 29 at Southern Exposure, a San Francisco arts organization and gallery, she’ll premiere films geared toward homestead newbies, including “The Elixir of Life” (about making alcoholic apple cider) and “What I Learned the Year I Made My Own Linen Underwear.” The screenings will be followed with tastings, live music and a square-dance party.

Todd Champagne, an owner of Happy Girl Kitchen, said homesteading is more than a passing trend.

“I joke at my workshops, ‘Canning is the new knitting,’ ” he said. “Food security takes on a heightened importance during difficult times.”

But he is optimistic that the cultural shift will outlast the economic downturn.

“There’s an enduring quality to these skills,” he said. “Once you get a taste of your own pickles, it’s hard to go back.”

Kyoto, the former imperial capital of Japan, is a vibrant mash-up, an ancient city electrified by the breathtakingly new. Cruise the futuristic food halls of a department store, gaping at the perfect fruit and glistening sea creatures, before zipping up to the traditional floor, with its kimonos and tea ceremony implements. See 2,000 ancient temples and shrines, then dine at a sleekly modern restaurant. Glimpse a geisha gliding down a cobblestone lane, bracketed by wooden machiya houses, and feel yourself catapulted to the 18th century — until you see her duck into a very 21st-century taxi, with a passenger door that opens and shuts automatically.

Friday

5 p.m.
1) HERITAGE HUNT

Two and a half years ago, the city enacted a landmark law aimed at protecting the city’s heritage districts, which have been defiled in recent decades by concrete block towers and other forces of modernization. Fleeting fantasies of old Kyoto can be found in Gion, the entertainment district, where, around dusk, geisha and maiko (geisha-in-training) can often be spotted flitting down Hanami-koji like exquisite rare birds to meet clients. As the sky dims, wander along Shirakawa Minami-dori, an atmospheric street surrounded by preserved wooden structures. But don’t wander too far or you’ll hit a gantlet of concrete and aluminum high-rises shrouded in neon signs and tangled electrical wires.

7 p.m.
2) MODERN KAISEKI

Kaiseki is Kyoto’s haute cuisine, an elaborate multicourse meal that originated about 500 years ago as an accompaniment to tea ceremonies. Today, sampling the cuisine can be a rarefied and pricey experience; meals at Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurants like Kikunoi (kikunoi.jp/english) run upward of $160 a person. But for an unbuttoned — and surprisingly affordable — take on kaiseki, try Giro Giro Hitoshina (420-7 Nanba-cho, Nishi Kiya-machi-dori, Higashigawa, Matsubarashita, Shimogyo-ku; 81-75-343-7070), a stylish restaurant carved out of an old wooden town house, with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Takase-gawa canal. Edakuni Eiichi, the chef, turns out innovative dishes like daikon rolls stuffed with foie gras and sweet potatoes. The set 10-course meal, which changes monthly, is 3,680 yen (about $40 at 91 yen to the dollar).

9 p.m.
3) AFTER HOURS

For a taste of Kyoto’s youth culture, head to one of the city’s funky live houses, or music clubs. One good bet is Taku Taku (Tominokoji-dori, Bukkoji-sagaru, Shimogyo-ku; 81-75-351-1321), a former sake storehouse that hosts big blues and rock acts like Taj Mahal and Los Lobos, and up-and-coming Japanese rock and pop bands. It’s been around since 1974, and the place oozes history, its walls plastered with concert posters. Afterward, if you’ve made some new friends, head to Super Jankara Karaoke Room (296 Naraya-cho, Kawaramachi, Takoyakushi-agaru, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75-212-5858), where premium rooms start at 450 yen a person every half-hour on weekends.

Saturday

10 a.m.
4) INNER PEACE

Though it’s mobbed by tourists during cherry blossom season (late March to early April), Maruyama Park in Gion is a tranquil spot the rest of the year. Start at the vivid white-and-orange Yasaka Shrine, where locals pray to the god of prosperity and health, and then wend your way through the park past ponds, gardens and a gigantic weeping cherry. Be sure to detour through the surreal hillside cemetery, its terraced maze of gravestones resembling a miniature city. The views are spectacular.

Noon
5) MAKE LIKE A MONK

Shojin Ryori, the vegetarian cuisine developed centuries ago by Zen Buddhist monks, consists of vegetables, beans and an array of bean curd variations, including creamy sesame tofu and chewy tofu skins. One of the best places to sample it is

Tenryu-ji Shigetsu (Syojin-ryouri Sigetu, Saga, Ukyo-ku; 81-75-881-1235), on the grounds of a 14th-century temple in Arashiyama. Diners sit or kneel in a long wooden hall and eat in silence, the better to appreciate the subtle flavors on the red lacquer tray (from 3,000 yen for a set lunch).

1:30 p.m.
6) DROP SOME YEN

Shoppers will find plenty of temptations along Sanjo-dori between Muromachi-dori and Teramachi-dori, a narrow stretch lined with stylish shops and buzzing with pedestrians and bicyclists. Also worth a wander is Teramachi-dori between Oike-dori and Marutamachi-dori, where you can find vintage textiles and kimonos made from elm, hemp and linden fibers at Gallery Kei (671-1 Kuon-in-mae-cho, Ebisugawa-agaru, Teramachi-dori, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75-212-7114; gallerykei.jp).

4 p.m.
7) TIME OUT KYOTO

For a recharge, stop by Somushi Kochaya (Karasuma Sanjo-nishi-iru; 81-75-253-1456; somushi.com), a Korean tearoom that serves medicinal teas spiked with ingredients like ginger and persimmon leaves (from 650 yen). Or seek out the new OKU Gallery and Cafe (570-119 Gionmachi Minamigawa, Higashiyama-ku; 81-75-531-4776; oku-style.com), a minimalist white space with a long, low window overlooking a miniature Japanese garden. Until 7 p.m., it serves tea and creative treats (like a jelly roll cake flavored with mugwort for 1,400 yen) on elegant black and white ceramic tableware by the local designer Shojiro Endo.

6 p.m.
8) NOODLE DINNER

Slurp handmade udon and soba — the ultimate Japanese comfort food — at Honke Owariya, established in 1465 and said to be the oldest noodle shop in Kyoto. There are three locations citywide, but the original 545-year-old restaurant is the most charming, with both traditional tatami-matted dining areas (remove your shoes and sit on the floor) and Western-style tables and chairs set within the creaky rooms of a former confectionery shop (322 Kurumaya-cho, Nijo, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75-231-3446; www.honke-owariya.co.jp). Try its signature Hourai Soba set, topped with shiitakes, shrimp tempura, Japanese leeks and grated daikon (2,100 yen). Bonus: a descriptive English-language menu, a rarity in Kyoto. The original closes at 7 p.m., but two other locations stay open later.

9 p.m.
9) NATIVE NIGHT LIFE

Pontocho-dori, a narrow alley packed with bars, restaurants and giant glowing paper lanterns, is great for photo ops. But for a more local scene, head north to Nijo-dori, a quiet street of private homes and small businesses. Highlights include Cafe Bibliotic Hello! (Nijo-dori, Yanaginobanba Higashi iru, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75-231-8625; cafe-hello.jp), a cozy cafe, gallery and bar with a fireplace and floor-to-ceiling bookcases. End the evening at Chez Quasimodo (Takakura Dori, Nijo-agaru, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75-231-2488), an intimate bar with a low, barrel ceiling where the mustachioed owner, Yoshio Sawaguchi, pours rare Scotch, stokes the fire and plays French chanson and jazz on vinyl.

Sunday

10 a.m.
10) CULTURE SHOCK

For a whiplash tour of Japanese culture, start at the Onishi Seiwemon Museum (Kamanza-cho, Shinmachi Nishi-iru, Sanjo-tori, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75-221-2881; www.seiwemon-museum.com), run by the 16th-generation tea kettle artist Seiwemon Onishi, where you can inspect tea ceremony implements and one-of-a-kind cast-iron kettles. Then blast into the present at the International Manga Museum (Karasuma-Oike, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75-254-7414; www.kyotomm.jp), which opened in 2006 in a converted elementary school, with exhibitions, drawing demonstrations and a library dedicated to Japanese and international comic books.

Noon
11) KYOTO’S KITCHEN

The flavors of Kyoto burst in Technicolor at Nishiki-koji Market (Nishiki-koji-dori, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75-211-3882), a seven-block arcade chockablock with tiny stalls of produce, seafood and specialty foods like deep-fried eel bones. Aritsugu (Nishiki-Koji Dori, Gokomachi Nishi-iru, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75-221-1091) is a 450-year-old family business that once produced swords for the Imperial Household and now specializes in hand-wrought steel chef’s knives, which can be engraved with your name, in English or Japanese, on the spot. They’re pricey — around 20,000 yen — but they make a sharp souvenir.

IF YOU GO

Kyoto is a 75-minute train ride from Osaka’s Kansai International Airport, or a 2.5-hour Shinkansen bullet train ride from Tokyo to Osaka (english.jr-central.co.jp). In early June, a one-stop flight to Osaka from Kennedy Airport (via Tokyo) starts at about $1,200 on American Airlines or Japan Airlines.

Kyoto is well served by buses, taxis, trains and subways, and easily navigable by bike.

If you’ve wanted to sleep in a capsule hotel, try the new and surprisingly stylish Nine Hours (588 Teianmaeno-cho Shijo Teramachi, Shimogyo-ku; 81-75-353-9005; www.9hours.jp). Each 3.5-foot-high black-and-white pod costs 4,900 yen a night, or $53.75 at 91 Japanese yen to the dollar.

The four-year-old Hyatt Regency Kyoto (644-2 Sanjusangendo-mawari, Higashiyama-ku; 81-75-541-1234; kyoto.regency.hyatt.com) remains among the city’s most luxurious, with 189 rooms decorated with oak furniture and silk-upholstered headboards. Standard doubles start at 22,000 yen.

Founded in 2004, Iori Machiya Rentals (144-6 Sujiya-cho, Tominokoji-dori, Takatsuji-agaru, Shimogyo-ku; 81-75-352-0211; kyoto-machiya.com) restores old wooden houses and rents them out, with rates from 26,000 yen.

Read excerpted article here

Urban beekeeping, or backyard beekeeping, is taking off in a major way in the Bay Area, as a growing brood of city dwellers is raising bees on rooftops, patios and small plots of land; harvesting the honey; and, in some cases, selling the yields in local shops and bakeries.

Ms. Wood started beekeeping in late 2008 and is a trailblazer in this growing movement, which is drawing a new crowd to a very old trade. At her nine-month-old shop, she sells beeswax candles, native honey, beekeeping supplies and a $200 starter kit that includes a two-tier cypress hive with a shiny copper roof. Since the shop opened last July, she has sold 130 kits and 450 pounds of bees, and hosted 21 beginner-level classes. In October 2009, she started a meet-up club, the  San Francisco Urban Beekeeping Group, which attracts up to 60 attendees at each gathering.

Paul Koski, a retired schoolteacher and the current secretary of the San Francisco Beekeepers Association, a club that promotes responsible urban beekeeping, estimates that in 2000 there were about 50 beekeepers in the city. Today, according to Ms. Wood, there are “at least 400.”

Beekeeping is thriving in cities across the nation, from Washington to Chicago to New York (where, on March 16, it was re-legalized). But compared with most urban areas, San Francisco offers a particularly hospitable habitat. It has a temperate climate, abundant plant life and legions of residents obsessed with local and sustainable food.

Even better, it happens to be “one of the most permissive places in the country to keep bees,” said Karen Peteros, a part-time employment lawyer and a former president of the beekeepers association. “Not only is it legal, but it’s totally unregulated — which means that as long as your bees don’t present a public nuisance, you can keep them wherever you want.”

According to Ms. Peteros, the current beekeeping boom dates to 2007, when reports of colony collapse disorder, or C.C.D. (the still-unexplained phenomenon of honeybees disappearing en masse), hit the media, sparking interest right around the time the local food and urban greening movement was taking off.

“C.C.D. is the worst and best thing that’s happened to honeybees in the last 50 years,” Ms. Peteros said. People saw beekeeping as “a chance to be close to wild nature in the city and participate directly in the production of food,” as Ms. Peteros put it. She speaks from experience: the first year she kept a hive in her backyard, in 2006, her neighbors’ previously anemic fruit trees produced an epic harvest. “One plum tree was so bursting, my neighbor made plum jam for the first time,” she said. “Someone else’s apple tree was so weighed down, its branches started breaking.”

On the national level, beekeeping remains a commercial, male-dominated industry, entwined with agribusiness, with thousands of hives trucked in to pollinate sprawling fruit and nut orchards across the country. But in cities, among hobby-level and sideliner beekeepers, that demographic is swiftly changing. When Mr. Koski started attending the local bee association meetings in the early ’90s, there were just a dozen members, “mostly middle-aged and older, mostly men,” he said. “Now it’s a wider demographic, pretty much a cross-section of who lives in San Francisco” — including unprecedented numbers of women.

What everyone has in common, he observed, is an interest in food and sustainability, the environment and “making the city a greener, more favorable place for humans to live.” Last year, the association’s membership peaked at 207.

So, what’s the draw? As far as urban agriculture goes, beekeeping is accessible, inexpensive and low-maintenance, Ms. Wood said. And it “yields a rather large and delicious reward.” Harvests vary year to year and colony to colony, but a typical hive of 60,000 bees will produce, on average, between 40 and 60 pounds of honey.

Some of that honey ends up on the shelves at Mission Pie, a bakery and cafe in the Mission District that focuses on local, seasonal and sustainably grown produce. Krystin Rubin, a co-owner, said the shop sells between three and eight different varieties at any given time, each hailing from a different neighborhood, and each with its own particular flavor, depending on the bees’ favored foraging spots (most often groves of eucalyptus trees, blackberry bushes or clumps of wild anise).

San Francisco’s newfound bee love thrills Ms. Rubin, who attributes it to residents’ growing desire to connect with their food sources and counterbalance increasingly high-tech lives.

“There’s only so much FarmVille you can play on Facebook before you want to grow your own real radish,” she said. “We’ve got so much contact with the virtual world that we’re hungry to come back to earth.”

Friday

4 p.m.
1) DRESS THE PART

If you forgot to pack your Western wear, make a beeline for Heritage Boot (117 West Eighth Street; 512-326-8577; www.heritageboot.com), where Jerome Ryan and his team of “boot elves” fashion fanciful boots out of exotic leathers like shark and caiman alligator, using vintage 1930s to ’60s patterns. With colorful stitching, hand-tooling and puffy, butterfly-shaped inlays, they’re instant collectors’ items — and priced accordingly, from $295 to $1,800. Next, stop by the new location of Cream Vintage (1714-A South Congress Avenue; 512-462-3000; www.creamvintage.com) for vintage Western shirts and weathered concert tees, customized to your dimensions by an on-site tailor.

6:30 p.m.
2) MEAT MECCA

Barbecue is a local sport and there are a lot of competing choices. For a classic pit experience — meaning you can smell the smoke and sauce as soon as you pull into the state-fair-size parking lot — drive 25 miles southwest to the Salt Lick (18300 Farm to Market Road 1826, Driftwood; 512-858-4959; www.saltlickbbq.com), settle into a communal picnic table and order the $18.95 all-you-can-eat platter, piled high with brisket, ribs and sausage. If you prefer to stay in downtown Austin, check out the newcomer Lambert’s Downtown Barbecue (401 West Second Street; 512-494-1500; www.lambertsaustin.com). Carved out of a brick-walled general store that dates from 1873, it is raising the bar (and provoking outrage among purists) with its newfangled “fancy barbecue” — think brown-sugar-and-coffee-rubbed brisket ($14) and maple-and-coriander-encrusted pork ribs ($16).

8 p.m.
3) CULTURAL ANCHOR

Just off the south shore of Lady Bird Lake is the world-class Long Center for the Performing Arts (701 West Riverside Drive; 512-457-5100; www.thelongcenter.org), opened in early 2008 after an epic $80 million fund-raising effort. It has one of the largest, most acoustically perfect stages in Texas, home to the Austin Symphony, Austin Lyric Opera and Ballet Austin. There’s also a smaller black box theater spotlighting local musicians, improv troupes and theater companies. Even if you don’t attend a performance, it’s worth stopping by for a glimpse of the glittering skyline views from the building’s front terrace.

Saturday

10 a.m.
4) BIKE STRONG

Explore the city at a leisurely pace by renting a bicycle from Mellow Johnny’s Bike Shop (400 Nueces Street; 512-473-0222; www.mellowjohnnys.com), opened by Lance Armstrong, a native son, in May 2008. In addition to selling and renting bikes (from $20 for four hours), the shop stocks accessories like wicker baskets, Chrome messenger bags and colorful racing jerseys. An adjacent cafe serves protein smoothies and organic coffee. If you ask, staff members will chart an appealing route along Austin’s 20 miles of urban hike-and-bike trails.

1 p.m.
5) LUNCH ON THE GO

Some of Austin’s best grub can be found in parking lots and vacant lots, dished out of Airstreams and food trucks by both amateur and professional chefs. You’ll find them all on www.austinfoodcarts.com, but here’s your shortlist: tarragon mushroom crepes with goat cheese ($6.75) at Flip Happy Crepes (400 Jessie Street; 512-552-9034; www.fliphappycrepes.com); slow-roasted green chili pork tacos ($3.25 each) at Torchy’s Tacos (1311 South First Street; 512-366-0537; www.torchystacos.com); and the hot, crunchy chicken-and-avocado “cone” with coleslaw and mango aioli ($5.95) at Mighty Cone (1600 South Congress Avenue; 512-383-9609; www.mightycone.com).

3 p.m.
6) VINYL TO DUCKS

South Congress is an appealing neighborhood for window-shopping, or shopping-shopping. Pick up rare and collectible vinyl, from 99 cents to $1,000, at Friends of Sound (1704 South Congress Avenue; 512-447-1000; www.friendsofsound.com), down an alley off the main drag. Quirky souvenirs, like a duck decoy ($28) or antique beaver top hat ($95), abound at Uncommon Objects (1512 South Congress Avenue; 512-442-4000; www.uncommonobjects.com), a sprawling emporium with a flea market aesthetic.

7:30 p.m.
7) BATS!

Early spring through late fall, the Congress Avenue Bridge hosts a Halloween-worthy spectacle: at dusk, more than a million Mexican free-tailed bats pour out from under the bridge and head east to scavenge for insects. The best spot for viewing the exodus is from the park at the southeastern end of the bridge, so you can see their flitting forms backlit by the glowing sky. To hear an estimate of the bats’ flight time on a particular evening, dial the bat hot line, operated by The Austin American-Statesman newspaper and Bat Conservation International (512-416-5700, extension 3636).

8:30 p.m.
8) FRENCH CONNECTION

There’s something almost Felliniesque about driving down a dark road lined with industrial warehouses, and stumbling onto Justine’s (4710 East Fifth Street; 512-385-2900; www.justines1937.com), a new, pitch-perfect French bistro. Outside, a family plays pétanque on the driveway; inside, groups of friends and couples sit on Thonet chairs at candlelit cast-iron-and-marble cafe tables, as a turntable, manned by the owner, Pierre Pelegrin, plays old jazz and reggae tunes. With atmosphere this good, the meal — Parisian comfort food, and delicious — is just a bonus. Order the duck confit ($15) or the steak frites with pepper sauce ($18).

10 p.m.
9) PERFORMANCE ANXIETY

The sheer quantity and variety of music in Austin on any given night can be daunting. Step one: consult Billsmap.com, which lists every gig in the city, highlights recommendations and includes links to previous performances on YouTube. Two spots that reliably deliver a good time are the Broken Spoke, an old-time honky-tonk dance hall (3201 South Lamar Boulevard; 512-442-6189; www.brokenspokeaustintx.com), and the retro red-walled Continental Club (1315 South Congress Avenue; 512-441-2444; www.continentalclub.com), which dates from 1957 and has roots, blues, rockabilly and country music.

Sunday

10 a.m.
10) TAKE A DIP

Wake up with a bracing swim in the natural, spring-fed Barton Springs Pool (2101 Barton Springs Road; 512-476-9044; www.ci.austin.tx.us/parks/bartonsprings.htm), a three-acre dammed pool that maintains a steady 68-degree temperature year-round. There’s sunbathing (sometimes topless) on the grassy slopes, a springy diving board and century-old pecan trees lining its banks. Then, park yourself on the patio at the new Perla’s Seafood & Oyster Bar (1400 South Congress Avenue; 512-291-7300; www.perlasaustin.com) for a decadent lobster omelet ($16) and an oyster shooter spiked with rum and honeydew ($7).

2 p.m.
11) EXPLORE OUTSKIRTS

Hill Country beckons to the west and south of Austin, with rolling limestone hills, wildflower-filled meadows and dozens of wineries. Get a closer look by driving 30 minutes to Bastrop State Park (3005 Highway 21 East, Bastrop; 512-321-2101; www.tpwd.state.tx.us/bastrop), for a hike along the 8.5-mile Lost Pines Trail, which takes you past a creek and a toad pond, and through rock outcroppings, mini-gorges and wooded ravines filled with oaks and loblolly pines. Channel your inner cowboy, especially if you’re breaking in new boots.

THE BASICS

American, Continental and JetBlue fly into Austin from many major cities; a flight from Kennedy Airport in New York in early December on JetBlue runs about $300. Public transportation is lacking — though a light rail is planned — so you’ll need a car or bike to explore the city.

An appealing home base is the lively and pedestrian-friendly South Congress neighborhood. Hotel Saint Cecilia (112 Academy Drive; 512-852-2400; www.hotelsaintcecilia.com), which opened last winter, has nine modern studios and bungalows, and five rooms in a converted Victorian house, starting at $275.

More affordable are the 40 rooms at the Hotel San José (1316 South Congress Avenue; 512-852-2350; www.sanjosehotel.com), which are airy and simply adorned with Indian bedspreads and framed vintage concert posters. Doubles with shared bath from $95; doubles with private baths from $160.

Nearby is the year-old Kimber Modern Hotel (110 The Circle; 512-912-1046; www.kimbermodern.com), where six minimalist rooms, from $250, open onto a hammock-strung patio shaded by a giant Texas live oak tree.